Surfing Santa Teresa - Part 4

The two things I remember the most from surfing are the right where I tried a top turn and the right where I pulled into the closeout barrel and then went over the falls. I wish I remembered more from the session as vividly as those two moments.

 

I also wanted to describe two images that I have loved.

 

The first was the Monday night sunset session, the first of the trip. As the sun was going down past the horizon it was a clear night and you could look straight at it - a big orange circle in a grey blue sky. Specifically, I remember seeing pavel's silhouette, black against the sunset background in dark water and wanting to have a case for my camera to take a Corey Wilson-inspired picture.

 

I also particularly loved the view today of the sunrise lineup in big surf with strong offshores. You could look in both directions and see the different clusters of surfers sitting on the "upper level" of the ocean, and then a drop off to the lower level. There is something I love about how it looks like the ocean is getting lower, not just the waves getting higher. That coupled with the massive, rainbow-filled spray shooting off the back of 6 foot peaks made it a special image.